Costa Rica: Tamarindo

Tamarindo was scorching hot again today. This is a place where people come annually. We met several folk today that make coming here their vacation every year. I can see why. The lounge chairs are plentiful, and the surfing is great. The beach is full of colorful shells and the sand rivals Rathtrevor Beach for sculpting and sandcastle art. Drawing in the sand is a local habit here. You can tours, or do what we did, sit happily by pools and beaches pretending to do nothing.

Now, I don't do "nothing" well. In fact an hour in the sun and I get twitchy, wanting to do something. Having barely made it to breakfast before they closed, I sat on my opinions and left the kids in the pool for a lengthy stretch, only hauling them out when I saw shades of pink on the shoulders. We had a sketchy lunch in the room and then, I pounced.

Thanks to some "expert" tourists, I opted to walk along towards the river. Despite the complaints, I stuck to my guns and found boats at the river, willing to take passengers. We bargained and got seats on the boat for $60 for our group of four. At the resort, a tour would have been $35 per person. We had a shady canopy, and up the mangroves we chugged. It was lovely. The operator stopped for photos as we asked, and found us a group of howler monkeys. It was a great way to spend two hours in the heat of the afternoon. We walked back along the beach and then plunked down by the beach pool.

Dinner was at Witches Rock. If you want hamburgers that are thick and juicy, this is the place. They had a large campfire, and jugglers came by top form. This place is on the beach and is accessible from both sides. Amusingly, a dog came a begging. Even funnier was the demand for ice cream by two hopeful faces...of course we caved.

Now, I am listening to the Friday night crowd and dance music blasting from the clubs. Not having a barely there dress in my repertoire, it is likely better that I  dance on my balcony. Friday night in Tamarindo, I don't ink you can beat this...sorry Mexico, I have a new favorite place...on this side of the Atlantic anyway.

Popular outing

Howler Monkey

Tamarindo on Dwellable

Costa Rica: El Diria Hotel and Tamarindo Beach

If you are looking for brilliantly hot sunshine, tempered with a breeze and things to do, this is the place. In the morning, the El Diria Hotel provides guests with a complimentary breakfast. We were told it would be continental style. The feast before us included waffles made to order, cereal, omlettes made fresh just the way I like it, a huge spread of pastries, bread and fruit. This is not continental but it is delicious.

After breakfast, we got a prime beach front location. Being on the beach, everyone is going to try and sell you something. From whistles and pottery, to your lounge chairs in the sand, to surf lessons...everything is for sale. You can have a massage on the beach, or play in the sand. Eventually, I was tired of being pestered so I withdrew to the pool and parrot watched instead. They seem to have green parrots here. The kids are being fish in the pool so, a close eye has to be kept on sunscreen. Pure vida as the saying goes.

Lunch today consisted of more homemade sandwiches with the yummy bread. I think that is something we are really missing back home, the access to a good bakery. I tend to go overboard when I find one as I never get it otherwise. Sunflower seed bread...omg.

This afternoon, we drifted back to the clover shaped family pool. It has stools in the water for me as the tiles are blisteringly hot on the feet. There is a swim up bar for those that want it, but I was happy with my water, it's even too hot to drink here at 37 degrees. There are trees for shade and bridges with water spraying out. The pool is also much deeper than the beach side pools so the kids can actually swim. Swim they did, for over four hours, which likely saved them for a terrible burn as they instinctively swam in the shade. Even my sun loving self chose shade over the mid day sun as I was afraid of the burn.

Showered and changed, we opted for a sunset walk along the beach. The sunset was fabulous, and the monkeys nowhere to be seen. The sandflies so were enthusiastic and the pelicans were having a feast. I have to note that you will smell happy smoke wafting across the beach in sections the closer you get to the public side of the beach access points.

Tamarindo is young at hippie/surfer heart. The people here understand the love of surfing and have hostels aplenty. I actually feel odd that we are not hosteling it here.  The locals are on the beach as much as the tourists. There was even a pottery class.  There are a few touristy shops, and lots of tour options to choose from, but in the end, this place is about the waves.


For food, after the walk, we chose wok and box, or something like that for food. It was amazingly tasty and reasonably priced. Of course, we had to stroll back to the gelato shop to sample more of his flavors. Since we now know that he makes it all himself, I want to try cinnamon and baileys mixed together. I had hazelnut and coconut tonight and that is happiness in an ice cream cone.

Sleepy, I am ready for bed. Hopefully, tomorrow is cooler. But only a bit....

Tamarindo on Dwellable

Costa Rica: Sarapiqui and Puerto Viejo

Mornings...icky icky mornings...I have to say getting two children out of bed for a 7:30am bus tour is not the brilliant idea that it sounds like when you hear about if for the first time. Dragging their heels from a warm almost comfy bed, the minions ate breakfast and settled into the back of the bus.

For 1.75 hours, we drove through the Parque Nacional Braullo Carilllo and wended our way through the cloud forest, down to the rain forest. Fortunately for us, there was little in the way of rain. Brilliant blue skies hazed by clouds and that was the worst of it. The first stop was a rest stop, and then we found ourselves deposited at a chocolate or cacao plantation called Teraminda. This place was amazing. It has Costa Rica's longest suspension bridge for a start, with lush rainforest and a tour that explains the preservation work being done. Here are research projects everywhere. Hummingbirds darted through the forest, but good luck getting a photo. We saw leafy ants and bullet ants.

On completing the short hike, we were treated to a presentation on how chocolate was made and came to be. From seeds from the cacao fruit which tasted like a strange grape, to crushing the beans to drinking hot chocolate and tasting the process at every step of the way, this was a sugar high and sensory overload. I loved it. We sampled everyone. And the girls literally were dripping in chocolate samples. Best yet, was seeing wildlife wander by. From there, we continued our hike and then were fed a delicious lunch as part of the tour.

Stocked up on chocolate, our next stop was Puerto Viejo for a boat tour. From chugging on the water in the boat, we saw howler monkeys, birds like egrets and the elusive white faced monkey. The howlers showed their vocals off and we also were treated to a crocodile appearance.  It would seem that our guide is a photographer and sells his CDs for $20.00.  We will have to see as his camera is definitely better than mine. There were even long nosed bats!

We drove home, tired and hungry after another session of San Jose rush hour. Heading out bravely in the car, gps found us a decent grocery store so that tomorrow, we can cook our own food. I the meantime, we found Sel et Pepe, an Italian restaurant with really great pasta, freshly made. Stuffed and tired, I think we can say life is decent!

The Chocolate Tour - roasting beans

Flavors for hot chocolate

Coffee bean

7 days of fermenting

Grinding

paste

Cooking stove

Howler Monkey

Costa Rica on Dwellable

Costa Rica: Poas Volcano and Peace Waterfall Gardens

Time for another adventure with Sol Tropical Tours. It was our last adventure with them today. Our driver Happer and Christian obviously forgot to dance to the sun Gods as the day loomed a bit hazy and clouds surrounded the mountains. We got on the bus anyway, and motored up and away to the Cloud  Rainforest.

The drive distracted us for a bit, as it wove through another city center before climbing out and up the mountain. The road twists and curves, plunging around ravines and sweeping up past villages asleep. this is definitely a road trip that requires motion sickness tablets for any queasy stomach. Don't say in didn't warn you! I was very relieved to be able to indulge in a cup of coffee.

Coffee was required to lift the spirits as the fine misty rain splattered our faces as we got got off the bus. In fact, the Poas Volcano was shrouded in cloud, so the plan changed and we went to the peace waterfalls first. any hope of better weather was dashed on arrival. Next note is that if the guide suggests a poncho, do it! We. Lost two cameras today due to excessive moisture. The rain drenched all raincoats and clothing. We were chilled to the one by the end.

 However, this is a wonderful stop. The birds are plentiful and it is a rescue center for wild animals. We saw parrots, butterflies, hummingbirds (not caged), snakes, orchids, frogs, cows, monkeys, felines and of course magnificent waterfalls. I was taken with the hummingbirds, but since zoos are abolished here, refuge centers are the best way to see the wildlife up close. I would have loved the waterfalls but I was far too wet and cold to really appreciate them, and the kids were worse. I would love to see this on a dry day. Maybe we will go back? As it was, we had to buy new clothes for the kids as they were too wet.

From here, we  optimistically went to the Poas Volcano. It was still misty raining so we strolled up and quickly viewed the hidden crater as it briefly peeped out,  before legging it back to the bus. It was rather frustrating as the day before it had been beautiful. It made me wish the tour guide had the flexibility to change the plan based on weather.

Lunch was back at our coffee stop. The open windows were chilly and the service was a it disorganized. They had missing meals etc. we did appreciate our guide asking for a fire for warmth and the hot food when it did arrive. I had tilapia for the first time and it was pretty good. So, late lunch let to a long drive home.

This was also the day that we had to work out tips. This is exceptionally daunting traveling as a family as of course, tips are expected along the way for all the extra guides. The expected tip based on their recommendations is $10 used per day per person. We did four tours (although the city tour was disappointing) so that works out to $160 minimum for a family of four. I am still stunned. This to me, while I understand it, means we really have to curtail our remaining tour plans as it was not budgeted for when we first signed up. Read the fine print.

This evening, we drove to the Multiplaza and wow, can you say Vegas? I was there to replace a camera, which the rainforest had proven to be too much for, and get groceries. No more eating out due to tips. The girls found Justice, and books and shoes and and and Costa Rica Girl and it was really tough to get out of there quickly. Also note that the roads have tolls that need to be paid in cash and you have to pay for parking. There are surprises everywhere.

Now, I am shivering in a hammock...writing a blog and thinking about more coffee. I have a new camera and well, looking forward to spending time in the countryside tomorrow.

Alajuela on Dwellable