New Orleans: Last Day

So sadly the time in New Orleans is drawing to an end. This morning started with a fabulous bakery run to the Rose Cafe (not the proper name but I can't remember it) where they had some amazing pasteries and coffee. So, I stocked up with enough delights for breakfast and fed us while suitcases were stuffed together and makeup done etc. Then, we hit the road for the airport with me driving. Might I suggest you don't rent an Aveo? Those brakes are very touchy!

Delivery to the airport complete, I still had one partner in shennanigans...so after little deliberation...off to the San Francisco Plantation we went. Tours started at 9:40 and we got there at, you guessed it, 9:40 am. We paid our entrance ticket and were met at the sunshiniest house I have seen. It is settled on the original property but you can see how flooding took it's toll on the land. You can also see how industry has encroached on this tourism style experience. If you ignore the freighters runnining the Mississippi and factory docks (who had a wonderful old style train), you can imagine the grounds being covered in beautiful European gardens and hoop skirts sashaying the walkway.

The house is bright and colorful, but even better was the tour guide. The lady was a character and had full ownership of the history. From seeing an 1860 shower that was for men only in the wine cellar, to the downstairs dining area, to the room taxes and corset stories, to the civil war and slavery. It was all covered with this lady's personalized flavor that seems to have made it very memorable. I can't decide who I like better, the Laura or the San Fransisco. It was a delightful morning.

 

The men's shower

 

School House for locals

                                                                The house: San Francisco

Then, we drove back into town and decided to find the parking at the war museum. The parking meter had been broken the day before so we thought there might be a chance of free parking. The plan was to get parking and find lunch. Or...what really happened. We got a bit lost, found Magazine Street and found the Lucky Ladle. We ordered lunch to go and asked for a good place to eat it near the river. We were sent to the FLY. Spelling might be completely wrong on that but that's what it sounded like. En route we did some costume shopping at a very disorganzed, Uptown Costume. By that, I mean you had to find what you want, hunt down staff to get it for you, hunt down the staff person who was supposed to get it for you and then have them find people to take your money. Seriously, check out took 25 minutes after they needed id for all card types. I nearly left the stuff in the store, I was choked. Lunch made up for that though. We got a bit off course again but found the Fly and settled to eat a scrumptious lunch watching barges and freighters along the river, and listening to Latino music drift over from the Zoo who were having Latino days.

Next up was the second airport run. Now, I am by myself in New Orleans and managed to get back to the resort where I have lazed by the pool, read a whole book from cover to cover, packed a bit and when I went down to print my boarding pass (another upscale production) I wound up working the desk and helping with customers. Crazy but fun. So, the party is escalating outside and as for me...the New Orleans adventure is done. Heading for home starting out at 5:00 am. See you on the flip side.

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New Orleans: Swamps, Beach and Cafe Du Monde

Oooffff. I am lollygagging on the sofa in the apartment we have for the week. As you might have already guessed, it is in the French Quarter right along the busiest music district in the city or so it would seem. Jazz is flavoring the air once more and the scents of the restaurants are floating in the window. However, that is now.

Early this morning things aligned so that we were able to go out to the Cajun Encounters swamp tour. We had the knowledgeable tug boat captain Billy to spin tales of the swamp and explain the wildlife to us. It was great to drift down the river and nestle among the cyprus trees and spanish moss. There were alligators and egrets, blue heron and turtles, raccoons and flying fish. I really enjoyed it and then he offered to let me drive the boat...so I did. Up to full speed too! We also saw first hand the homes of the swamp dwellers and did see the impact that Hurricane Katrina had on the population. Turns out that he himself lost everything in the backwash.

After a thoroughly enjoyable tour, the guide mentioned that if we drove...and turned left out of the drive instead of right, that we would wind up on a beach on the Gulf Of Mexico. The three of us looked at each other and that was all it took. Off to the beach. It was a gloriously hot and sunny day, why not? So, we drove and suddenly realized from the signage that we were not in Louisiana anymore. Welcome to Mississippi! Nothing loth, we went to the beach anyway and had it almost to ourselves. Yellow fine sand, warm waters and dolphins playing in the shallows. In the distance was the Casino.

So, we took pictures and walked the beach and then realized that if we went to the Casino, we would have played in two states in less than 24 hours. That was too funny not to do. After that, we drifted back into town and found the WWII Museum. That was a technological overview of the war from the American perspective. It was interesting and diverse. They also had some graphic images. My favorite of course was the nose art from the WWII bombers. I still love that stuff.

Then, it was dinner time. I asked a local walking his dog and he recommended Cochon. It was absolutely finger licking (But don't do that it is rather posh) delicious. We sampled alligator, grits, twice stuffed potatoes, mac and cheese and gumbo. So tasty that for the first time this trip I totally overate. And I wasn't finished. After dinner and shopping for treats along the French Quarter, we stopped for dessert at Cafe du Monde. It was powdery and quite fabulous. So, now we wait for the concerts to stop and sleep to arrive. Night again. One more day tomorrow.

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New Orleans: Garden District

Funnily enough, after listening to jazz music as I fell asleep, I didn't exactly rise and shine as early as I thought perhaps I should. I arose to the sound of muted voices chatting the room next door. Oh no, I must have kept them waiting for awhile. I felt much better when I realized the pajama brigade was still intact. It was a rather southern start to the morning. Very languid, and cozy.

After realizing that breakfast at Cafe du Monde was not going to happen, especially as we encroached on lunch time, we decided to head out for the street car line. We rode the riverfront trolley, to canal street and changed again for St. Charles Street line to the garden district. Streetcars are supposed to go every 15 minutes, but really, it is more of an adventure than that. The lines go when the conductor is ready and not before. You can buy a day pass on the trolley, something we didn't figure out until later and you really should if you are going both directions as it costs the same as two transfer tickets and gives you more options. Be prepared for bathroom breaks, lunch stops and driver switches at random along any or all routes.

Once in the garden district, we opted for a delicious lunch at a Cheesecake place. I don't think I ever want to see my scale again. Then, we found the tourist information and acquired a map. Walking the Garden District commenced. We wandered the streets admiring the architecture, finding the listed houses and reading all the signs. We fantasized about owning them and even tried to find MLS listings for some that were for sale in the district. No luck, I still have no idea what they would cost. They are beautiful. At least, they are lovely until you see them kitted out with incongrous halloween decorations. It would be the season for that here and some of the houses are done up in pure New Orleans style. There is also still Mardi Gras debris hanging from the trees. The other thing we noticed is that it is not very wheel chair friendly as the old trees have the concrete and/or brick sideways peeling up several inches to reveal their roots.

Finally, we transited back and changed for dinner. We had dinner on the Natchez riverboat and listened to the jazz band as we floated down the Mississipppi River. It was calm on the water and very serene to listen to the paddle churn at one end while the music drifted back from the front. Dinner was rich, full and amazing. The drinks were good and the gift shop limited. I think I liked the fish and veggies best on the menu. Just saying...

The ship docked at 9:00 which was far too early to go home so we hit the casino. There was enough glitz and gambling in their to give Vegas a real showdown. The casino world is alive and well. I lost $5 so I am miffed. From there, we wandered down the roads back to our hotel where once again the french quarter is thumping with at least 5 bands churning out music. Not all Jazz tonight either, so it could be an even longer night.

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New Orleans: Bourbon Street

Take that you foul feind. Take that you "what are you wearing?" Oh my did you see THAT? In case you missed it, we elected to walk around the french quarter to downtown. We sampled coffee and window shopped. We prowled the downtown core. There was beautiful art and historic landmarks. The music hummed through the air and rippled through the airwaves. People were jostling and laughing and drinking up and down the street. From the hippie voodoo loving travellers to the local residents trying to wave you through their doors, there is definately something for everyone and it is not for the faint of heart. Vegas, you have competetion for raucous eye opening place on earth.

Here, they gamble. Here, they drink and wander the streets. Eye distractions and abominations are prevalent. But the food. Yum. There again the savory scents catch your nose and entice you in. We had dinner at Ramloude. Basic po'boy with onion rings that were fabulously delicious. Drinks are on offer everywhere. Bourbon street, they toss out necklaces and expect you to pay for it with entertainment. There are the street performers and wild carousers. Funny slogans and masks to boot. This is a city of contrasts.

From Bourbon street, we crossed to Pirate Alley and strolled the art galleries and did more shopping. We spied policemen on horseback. Fancily dressed individuals and people that were not dressed really at all. Historic buildings and monuments are intertwined with large neon lights and music pumping from every nook and cranny. This is a city of contrasts. I dare you to be bored!

New Orleans: Plantation Fever

Fabulous. Just Fabulous. This morning the air was rich in humidity and so sunny. After collecting the third member of the museum geek squad, the car pointed itself in the direction of the local plantations. After having an argument with the google Iphone app., which the driver eventually lost, we found ourselves on the way to Oak Alley Plantation. On arrival to the plantation, you see these magnificent oak trees that line the walkway. On the right is a levee that blocks the surge of the Mississippi River that seems to meander its way through. In reality, it is hurtling by. The trees are lining a brick walkway that leads to the Antebellum Mansion that is Oak Alley.

First, we had to sample the wares of the restaurant. I sampled the chicken gumbo and discovered that it was really savory. Sausage, chicken and rice in a broth that was simple yet delicious. Yum! I can see that this trip might become all about the food very quickly. In the gift shop, there are spices and sauces galore. I might be tempted yet into bring back some cane syrup. For these are the worlds of creole, sugar cane plantations, slavery stories and clashing cultures. Back to Oak Alley. We were met by a costumed tour guide who mumbled her way through the history of the families that had lived in the home. The history was fascinating but not much of the furntiture was original to the house so it lost a bit in translation. There were some beautiful antique cars and gardens but really, the food stole the show.

By contrast, we went to the Laura Plantation and got a wonderful tour guide. He was able to spin the trials and tribulations of Laura's family tree with flavour, humor and spice. He threaded his way through the rooms and really made sure that we understood the cultural differences of the creole way of life. He was also more open and honest about the slaving roots and the overall experiences of the people. This tour should be a must on everyone's list. The gift shop prowl was well met so now, we are booking our dinner reservations for tomorrow.

Tonight? Well, it might just have to be Bourbon Street. Look out New Orleans.

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And Welcome to New Orleans

After flying for most of the night, and sipping copious amounts of fair to middling coffee, I blearyily eyed the baggage carousel. The purple people eater is there, so I snag it and set off to find...well first my co-adventuress...but then the rental car counter.

Stepping out of the airport, the waves of humid air wrap around your lungs and the sunshine kisses you hello. You can't help but smile and laugh and welcome to New Orleans. Jazz is played throughout the airport in case you missed it.

So, we find our hotel. Driving in, the city looks like any other. A concrete jungle curves and winds it way to downtown. However, once you turn into downtown, the battered old ladies of buildings still have charm. There is definately a weathered look to the structures. Paint peeling, siding missing in places and some boarded up windows. Hurricane Katrina is definately still prevalent here. I was a bit charmed by that. The thing I love and hate though is the beautiful buildings decorated and vamped up for Halloween. It is like seeing your grandmother wear spandex and a tutu, or the sexy french maid costume. The ghosts and ghouls just are wrong. And this is coming from someone who loves the fun of decorating. The oxymoron of it has been laughing and shaking my head.

On arrival to the Frenchmans district where we are staying, we find a subdued complex. The surrounding area is graffitted to death and we have already been told we are not in the best of the French Quarter. But the place is nice. We happen to have a two bedroom apartment for this extravaganza. Hardwood floors, comfortable beds, full kitchen, living room and bath...balcony...fabulous. Already the sounds of jazz and other music is wafting through the windows.

One can't just hole up in the apartment, this is New Orleans. We ventured off to find alligators but instead found a costume shop, a grocery store and the city. We window shopped around magazine street. Got lost several times and finally decided to park the rental car and walk to downtown. Hahaha.

The restaurants are already going to be the devil. We walked out the door and were hit with the savory aromas of food. Cajun and Soul. Patisseries and coffee. Beer and stale smoke. It was a palette of New Orleans. The food was amazing and that was just our first try at a little hole in the wall place on the corner of Frenchman's street. We didn't get far. Then, we walked to downtown, drfiting from artist to cafe, from tourist kitch to the river, to Cafe Du Monde to the hotel.

Now, we have slept...rested and are ready to start all over again. First, let's go get the missing member of the museum geek squad. To the airport and beyond. I will try and post some pictures of the halloween stuff...too good not to get some.

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